Spot Repair vs Repiping: Which Fix Does Your Slab Leak Need?
One fix targets a single leak, the other replaces the run. Compare both side by side and learn which one fits your line.
A reroute solves a failing line by going around it. We run a new water line through walls or the attic, connect it to the fixtures the old line served, and cap the old line under the slab so it carries no water. The slab stays closed, and the home gets a new line along a route we can reach and service.

A slab leak is a leak in a water line that runs under or through the concrete slab beneath your home. The full picture, signs, causes, and detection, sits on the homepage. A reroute is the repair that stops chasing the leak and replaces the line instead. Rather than opening the slab at the leak, we leave the old line buried, cap it at both ends, and run a new line where we can reach it.
The new line follows the shortest sound route from the supply to the fixtures it serves. In many Arizona homes that route runs up a wall, across the attic, and down to the bathroom or kitchen on the other side. The old line never carries water again, so a leak in it cannot come back.
A reroute fits when the problem is the line, not one leak in it:
If your situation matches this list, a reroute is likely the fix that fits. The steps below show how the job runs.
A reroute is a bigger job than a spot repair. In these cases we will tell you so before any work starts, and we will walk through the option that fits better, usually a spot repair.

Think you have a slab leak? Talk to us.
We run a meter check and locate the leaking line with listening gear, pressure testing, and moisture readings.
We map a route for the new line through walls, ceilings, or the attic, and walk it through with you.
We shut off water to the home and drain the old line.
We run the new line along the agreed route, with supports and insulation where the route passes through the attic.
We cap the old line at both ends so it carries no water, then connect the new line to the fixtures it serves.
We pressure test the new line, restore water, and run a second meter check and a run of the taps to confirm the system is sealed.
Step two is the one that shapes the whole job. The route decides which rooms the work touches, where the openings go, and how the new line reaches each fixture. We agree on the route with you before any work starts.
A reroute is work across several rooms rather than work in one spot.
Water will be off while the lines change over. We shut off water while we drain the old line, run the new one, and make the connections. Taps, toilets, and appliances that use water will sit idle during that stretch. Fill a few jugs and a bucket before we start, and plan showers and laundry around the work.
Work moves from room to room. The crew follows the route: up one wall, across the attic, down to the fixtures. Each room is in use for part of the job, then cleared again. We keep tools and materials in the room in use so the rest of the home stays as clear as the job allows.
Small openings in walls and ceilings. A reroute usually needs small openings to run the new line and set its supports. We keep each opening as small as the work allows and close them back when the line is in. A new paint finish over the patched areas is separate work you can line up after we leave.
Attic work can be warm. In an Arizona summer, an attic holds heat. We plan the route to keep time in the attic as short as the job allows, and we bring the materials up in batches so no one stays up there longer than needed.
Access to the attic hatch and fixture walls. Clear the space around the attic hatch and the walls the route follows. Move furniture a short way out from those walls so the crew can work along them. If a wall holds a large built-in piece, tell us when you call so we can plan the route around it.
When we leave, the new line is in service, the old line is capped and dry, and the meter sits still with taps off. If anything looks off in the days after, call us and we will come back and look at it.
Think you have a slab leak? Talk to us.
These two fixes solve the same problem in opposite ways. One replaces the line. The other deals with the leak where it sits.
| Approach | How it works | When it fits | What to expect |
|---|---|---|---|
| Reroute | Run a new line through walls or the attic and cap the old line under the slab. | A line that keeps leaking, or a spot fix that will not hold. | Work in walls and the attic, with the slab left closed. |
| Spot repair | Open a small area of slab at the leak and replace the damaged section of line. | One leak in a line that is otherwise sound and easy to reach. | Work in one room, a small slab opening, then patching back. |
For the full picture of spot repair, see slab leak spot repair. For an overview of all four repair options, see the homepage.




One fix targets a single leak, the other replaces the run. Compare both side by side and learn which one fits your line.
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A reroute fixes the leak by taking the failed line out of service and running a new line along a different path. The old line stays capped and unused, so water no longer flows through the damaged section at all.
A reroute can shorten or lengthen the path hot water travels, so the wait at a tap may shift slightly. Your technician plans the new run to keep that wait short and checks each tap before the job is finished.
Yes, and tile is one reason reroutes are popular. The new line runs overhead or through walls instead of under the slab, so your tile stays untouched. That avoids the dust and patching that come with opening a tiled floor.
Treat it like any other water line. Watch your meter now and then, keep the pressure in a normal range, and call if a tap starts running weak or a wall feels damp. A quick check early keeps a small issue from turning into a bigger one.
The new line runs through walls, ceilings, or the attic, along the shortest sound route from the supply to the fixtures it serves. We map the route with you before work starts so you know which rooms and which wall sections the work touches.
We cap the old line at both ends so it carries no water. It stays buried under the slab, dry and out of service. Nothing about the old line changes after that, because no water runs through it.
A reroute usually needs small openings in walls or ceilings to run the new line and set its supports. We keep each opening as small as the work allows and close them back when the line is in. A new paint finish over the patched areas is separate work you can line up after we leave.
The new line is sized to suit the run it takes, so taps should run as they did before. When we finish, we run the taps and check the flow at each fixture the new line serves. If a tap runs weak, we find the cause before we leave.
It depends on the length of the run and on how many walls and ceilings the route crosses. A short run to one bathroom takes less time than a long run across the home. When we map the route with you, we will lay out the sequence of the work so you know what to expect.
A reroute is the wrong choice when the leak is a one-off in a line that is otherwise sound. In that case a spot repair is the more direct fix, with a smaller footprint. A reroute is also the wrong choice when the leak sits in a drain line rather than a supply line, since drain lines call for a different kind of work.
Last updated: October 20, 2026.